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00:02: Hi, I'm Kim Severson, a food writer with The New York Times, back once again, with more from our new series, NYT shorts.
00:12: These are bite-sized dispatches from our reporters, editors, and critics.
00:16: You'll be the first to know about their latest obsessions and what they see coming next.
00:21: It's just an amazing thing to watch.
00:23: I love it.
00:24: I'm calling it now.
00:25: I'm not afraid to call it now.
00:26: It's the movie that unlocked my love for cinema.
00:29: I am crying a little bit.
00:32: Find them and more on our new app and white to your audio.
00:36: It's available now to all our subscribers. [♪ OUTRO MUSIC PLAYING [♪
00:43: First up is Abellia Herrera writes about music for the times.
00:47: And today, she's giving us a crash course in Dembo.
00:51: When I was a kid, I would go on these trips
00:53: to the Dominican Republic to visit my family. [♪ OUTRO MUSIC PLAYING [♪
00:58: we would make sure we went to the beach at some point.
01:02: It was about two hours away from Santiago, where my family is from.
01:07: On the way to the beach, we would often see these vans
01:12: that were really just, you know, had huge speakers, like just covered in subwoofers.
01:22: There would be a lot of Gasolene de Us, which, you know, these gas stations
01:25: where a lot of these fans would just kind of park.
01:28: And it was basically like as soon as you pulled up, you could just feel the bass.
01:38: I would roll down the window
01:39: and just like dance in my seat.
01:43: That's one of the first times I really remember hearing them, though.
01:49: Amisa Vellera and I write about music and culture.
01:55: Growing up in Chicago, I didn't really hear them bow in the street anywhere.
01:58: It was mostly something I listened to at home or with my brother.
02:01: But when I moved to New York, it was everywhere and it was finally like someone gets it.
02:05: Like I see myself here.
02:08: And hear them bow coming out of like a bodega or coming out of people's cars,
02:13: just like lasting on the street out of people's windows.
02:17: Your body will uncontrollably move.
02:23: I mean, it's definitely like the danceable, like you just can.
02:26: You have to pop to it as soon as you hear it.
02:34: So then Bo is all about having a good time.
02:36: You know, a lot of the songs are about dancing or parting or doing drugs.
02:40: And because this is a sound that comes from working class black neighborhoods outside of
02:44: Santo Lomingo, a lot of people look down on it.
02:48: The Dominican government censors songs that they think are explicit.
02:52: People who are socially conservative
02:54: really dismiss the genre as vulgar and obscene.
02:57: Theembo is not the first genre that experiences that kind of backlash.
03:01: I mean, any genre that comes from the street often gets that type of criticism.
03:05: So if you dismiss theembo, you're really missing out
03:09: on a larger and richer deep cultural history.
03:14: It holds, you know, the history of Jamaican dance hall in it.
03:18: It holds elements of proto-regaton from Puerto Rico, hip hop from New York, but then both
03:29: signatures sort of style is that they crank the tempo up.
03:35: Sometimes to like 140 beats per minute.
03:40: It is like breakneck wrapping over it,
03:42: a lot of repetition in the chorus,
03:45: and that repetition is super central to the genre and it's catchin' this.
03:49: If you're just getting into them, Bo,
03:57: I think you absolutely need to listen to a lalfa.
04:02: He is the king of the genre, he is the funniest one, he is the widiest one,
04:06: and he is definitely your entry point to get into them, Bo.
04:12: You can really hear how hard he goes and the Magage Gigo-Goo, which is his song with Bad
04:16: Bunny from 2016.
04:17: The title is a reference to the word the Magolo, and the Magolo is Dominican slang for someone
04:23: who's a hater, someone who's a jealous person, and the title is this really witty word play
04:30: in the sense that it's like expanding all the syllables of the Magolo.
04:37: It's not just a demagoguette, it's a demagage, it's go-goo.
04:41: That's how much of hate or this person is.
04:43: That's how much of a jealous person they are.
04:46: It's sort of like you encompass all of the possible syllables and vowels of the word. ["Mama Go Go Go"]
04:57: I got to see El Alfa and to see the King of Them Bo,
05:01: someone who really came from the street
05:04: and brought this music that has been dismissed for so long,
05:07: to Sal out Madison Square Garden was huge.
05:12: I mean, you could hear like the chair shake,
05:14: you could just hear everyone screaming the lyrics,
05:16: you know, there were Dominican flags waving everywhere.
05:21: I mean, it was really like a carnival.
05:23: Like, it was so fun, it was constant movement on the stage.
05:27: It was a great time.
05:32: He made a lot of comments through the show
05:34: and like in his audience banter being like,
05:37: Who said the Dominican Republic couldn't go global, who said Dembo wouldn't make it
05:41: as this kind of celebratory moment for the movement?
05:45: What's the most important thing?
05:47: You know, my reaction was just like, yes, finally, Dembo made it.
05:53: I listened to Dembo pretty much every day, whether it's on my running playlist or my cooking playlist,
06:00: or just to get pumped up for something, and I think you should do.
06:21: Okay, next up we're talking about food with my friend and colleague who has done a little pantry spillunking.
06:28: And as come up with a bottle you probably already have on your shelf and which I cannot spell and nor pronounce.
06:37: Hi, I'm Melissa Clark.
06:38: I'm a food reporter at the New York Times,
06:40: and I'm standing in my kitchen next to the pantry.
06:46: In this series, we're gonna take a deep dive into the pantry.
06:50: God, you know, did you know I have two jars of marmite?
06:53: Why do I have two jars of marmite?
06:54: I mean, one was the last time you actually explored everything in your pantry.
06:58: What is this thing all the way on the back?
07:01: If you're like me, you buy a condiment, maybe you'll use it once,
07:05: put it in the back of your pantry, and completely forget it's even there.
07:08: Oh, sweet and black vinegar.
07:09: I bet you have an entire meal in there,
07:11: just waiting for you to discover it and make it for dinner tonight.
07:14: And opening it up and, woo, it smells so savory.
07:18: Well, I'm gonna help you figure out
07:19: what to do with all of those condiments in the back of your pantry,
07:22: how to use each and every one of them to its absolute best.
07:26: Oh, God, it's so great, I love it.
07:29: And today, we're gonna talk about something
07:30: That's a real pantry staple, Worcestershire sauce.
07:35: Worcestershire sauce is absolutely essential in Caesar salads.
07:39: You need it for your bloody Mary, but what else can it do?
07:42: And what even is it?
07:45: So Worcestershire sauce was developed in the 19th century.
07:48: It was actually developed by pharmacists, pharmacists named Lee and Perens,
07:53: in the town of No Surprise here, Worcester, in England.
07:59: Worcestershire is made up of four main ingredients.
08:02: So you've got anchovies which have assaltiness, they have an umami depth and a little bit of a saline fishy flavor.
08:11: You have molasses which add sweetness.
08:15: You have tamarind which gives a very bright fruity flavor, almost like a citrus flavor.
08:21: And then you have barley malt vinegar which is sharp and acidic.
08:26: And all of those were fermented together with some other seasonings.
08:29: It was garlic and shallots, there were spices.
08:33: And when you ferment all of these things, they blend into this just very rich, very fragrant sauce with a bold flavor.
08:41: And it keeps for a long time too.
08:43: So that bottle of Worcestershire in your pantry, you can still use it even if you can't remember when you bought it.
08:52: So if you're thinking, well, where would I want to use Worcestershire?
08:55: Think about where you'd want to use Asian fish sauce.
08:59: Asian fish sauce has a ton of umami.
09:02: You can just add a little bit to anything and it's going to brighten the flavors.
09:05: It's got salt.
09:06: It's got that depth that almost caramelized nuance.
09:10: Worcestershire sauce accomplishes a lot of the same things.
09:14: But it also has a little bit of sweetness and it has more acidity.
09:19: sauce is going to be a funkier flavor. A Worcestershire sauce, it's like the whisper of an anchovy.
09:25: It's like, mm, here I am. I'm adding this, you know, this depth of flavor, this salty umami flavor.
09:31: And yes, there's anchovy, but you can't really taste it because it's integrated. It's part of the
09:35: sauce, but it's there and it's doing work for you. What else can we use Worcestershire sauce for?
09:43: Have you ever made a pot of stew or soup and you're just cooking and you're not following a
09:48: recipe and you're tasting and you're like, oh my god, this needs something. And you
09:52: know it needs salt, but it's not just salt. It needs something else. So in those moments,
09:58: that's where you are going to go into your pantry and you're going to say, okay, condiments,
10:02: who shall I choose to put into my soup pot? Because you need that extra. And Worcestershire
10:07: is my go-to. A little bit of Worcestershire just perks up your stew. It's almost like adding
10:14: to your soup, you know, instead of a bouillon cube, a couple of dashes of Worcestershire.
10:19: It's adding life, it's adding flavor, it's adding verve.
10:23: So, next time you've got your pot of whatever simmering
10:27: and you don't know what to add, try the Worcestershire.
10:30: It is there for you.
10:38: You know what? I'm gonna try that.
10:40: I have learned to never sleep on a Melissa Clark cooking tip.
10:46: And finally, to send you off into your day, a new series called How I Hold It Together from the Well Desk.
10:54: They started this little project during the pandemic and you might recall it was very
10:58: hard to just get through the day.
11:00: But the series worked.
11:02: They got through those days and many more days and decided to just keep it going.
11:07: So here's Deputy Editor Kate Lowenstein on how she holds it together.
11:15: I told my husband that I was doing a story called how I hold it together.
11:19: And of course he said, how about the first line is,
11:22: I don't, which is funny because it's true.
11:27: We have two young children, our apartment's always a mess.
11:30: Things are very chaotic in my life.
11:33: But, you know, I have coping skills
11:36: and I've been a health editor for a long time,
11:38: so I have a little perspective on which of those coping skills
11:41: might be useful for other people to hear.
11:43: So here's how I kind of hold it together.
11:52: I feel like there are not a lot of good breakfast foods out there.
11:55: Personally, that's my hot take.
11:57: And I have decided that I'm going to start eating non-brechfast foods
12:01: for breakfast most of the time, and it has lots of advantages.
12:07: One, you can eat your leftovers from the night before, which is very fast and easy.
12:11: Sometimes standing and sometimes with the refrigerator door still open.
12:15: Two, it keeps me satisfied for much longer than a bowl of cereal.
12:20: I think spaghetti makes a great breakfast.
12:22: Delicious, spicy, fish and cabbage soup.
12:25: I ate this leftover fried calzone for breakfast the other day.
12:31: It was not good cold.
12:32: It was pretty soggy.
12:34: But it kept me full for a while.
12:41: So my hips and back often feel very tight and achy, especially after I've been sitting for a while.
12:51: And there's a spot really right on the side of my hip that's just always kind of tight and tender.
12:59: So something I find really useful is lying down on the floor.
13:04: Sometimes it's just lying down on the floor that feels good.
13:06: But then also lying on a trigger point ball, which is a like four inch ball that's hard and smooth.
13:15: And I put the ball on a yoga mat.
13:18: I get down on top of the ball kind of on my side so that the ball is right under my right hip.
13:29: And at first it's really tight and tense and it hurts.
13:33: But then I do a few deep breaths and I stay there a little longer and I feel the not release.
13:42: It feels like a massage where someone's going really, really deep.
13:48: And if I stay on it for long enough, the pain kind of goes away.
13:59: So when I am finding myself having really overwhelmingly negative thoughts, like sweeping
14:06: thoughts, like I never see my aging parents enough and my kids eat no vegetables.
14:15: And I'm so late on every story I'm working on, these sort of like over generalizations
14:21: about how poorly I'm doing in life.
14:24: I've recently become able to notice when I'm doing that and think to myself, you know, what's going on?
14:31: Are you especially tired today?
14:33: And usually that is the case.
14:37: And on those days, I say, okay, today you're an unreliable narrator and you're not going to take yourself too seriously.
14:46: And these thoughts are, we're going to just sort of hang them up and reconsider them later
14:51: because they're being heavily influenced by how tired you feel today.
14:55: Not trying to have a conversation with myself about why it's not true or, you know, certainly
14:59: trying to stop the spiraling thoughts about how it is true.
15:04: And just being like, all right, these are the thoughts we're having today.
15:07: Let's move on.
15:13: So there was this day last September when my toddler dropped my phone on the playground and it completely broke.
15:21: I could not use it at all and I really couldn't believe how sort of free and untethered that feeling was.
15:33: So I took a tip from my friend Tom and bought a lock box that has no overrides, which
15:42: means you put it in, you set the time that you want to leave your phone in there and then
15:48: you cannot get it out, which is a little bit terrifying, but it has allowed me to feel much more present.
15:57: You don't have that feeling of needing to check something constantly and I can read a book
16:03: or sit with my toddler who's doing something maybe not super engaging and doing it for 10 minutes even feels really good.
16:23: I'm Kate Lowenstein and here's how I hold it together.
16:30: I lie on a trigger point ball.
16:32: I grant myself unreliable, narrator days.
16:35: I eat dinner for breakfast.
16:36: I put my phone in a lock box.
16:41: My son definitely did take the lock box and lock it for two and a half days.
16:48: My phone was not in it at the time, but it made me realize, you know, that it could go wrong.
17:02: Well, our Saturdays together have come to a close.
17:07: I hope you'll find more NYT shorts on our new app, NYT Audio.
17:13: It's available for free to all of our subscribers.
17:16: Download it at NYtimes.com slash audio app.
17:22: This episode was produced by Tina Antillini, Elissa Dudley, Sarah Curtis, and Tracy Mumford.
17:30: Edited by Wendy Dorr and Lynn Levy, engineered by Rowan Nemistow, Corey Shruppell, Daniel
17:37: Ferrell, and Sophia Landman.
17:39: Special thanks to Paula Schumann and Sam Dolnick.
17:42: I'm Kim Severson.
17:44: Thanks for spending these past few Saturdays with me.
17:48: And download the app.
17:49: You're gonna like it.
17:51: I'll see you when I see you.